Final days

Our last day in Turkey found us visiting the Spice Bazaar, called the Egyptian bazaar by locals as, originally, spices came from Egypt. You can see from the pictures that it's not just about spices, but other foods such as honeycomb, candies, nuts, oils, dried fruits and veggies as well as cheeses and dried meats. It's a delightful assault on the senses!






























We made a quick trip back to the Grand Bazaar before walking some distance back to the Hippodrome and area around the Blue Mosque and Haggia Sophia. We ate lunch at a former prison, now a Four Seasons luxury hotel.




After returning to the condo and resting awhile and freshening up, we went out for our last Istanbul dinner, to a restaurant in the part of town called Bebek, at the Bebek Hotel. The restaurant was literally at sea level on the Bosphorus Strait, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and which divides both the city of Istanbul and the continents of Europe and Asia. It was open-air dining and you could almost touch the water! It was beautiful! We talked of all the things we'll see and do at our return visit!!





Once finished, we went for a walk along the Bosphorus and came across a man with a mama rabbit and two bunnies. We all ooh'ed and aah'ed as we held those tiny things. The mama rabbit was trained to pick fortunes from a rack full of paper slips. The English translation left one wanting, but it was a fun experience.




We were up early to catch an 8 a.m. taksi to the airport. Despite arriving before 9:00, we had no time to spare before boarding our 11:20 flight which will take us to Chicago and then home. I'm writing this entry, which I obviously can't post until Chicago, at some 30,000 ft in the air over the Atlantic between Iceland and Greenland. Our bodies say it's 5:45 p.m., but in Portland it's just 7:45 a.m.! We will arrive at PDX around 7:30 tonight, tired, but basking in the experience while being glad we're home!

I watched this young child being playful two days ago on Buyukada. At the same time a woman in a burka walked near us. All around were women, such as these, who were covered. I thought of how we all start out so innocent, playful and open to all of life and all of God's children. But, somewhere along the way we learn to be afraid of those different than us, all too often believing it's because we're right and they're wrong. And the roots of hatred begin.









We will take with us so many wonderful memories of people and places, sights and sounds and smells, food and drink, hot...hotter...hottest, blue and turquoise waters, calls to prayers, laughter and tears. We are so grateful to have had an easy, delightful and spirited travel companion in Nancy! We will be forever indebted to Oya for her generosity of time, money, knowledge of locale and language, and for including us in her time with family and friends. She added a rich, laughter-filled adventure to our lives.
















It will be good to see all of you, except Mike and Mary who we wish continued great adventures in France! Gule Gule!!!

Addendum: Sat on the Tarmac for 25 minutes, had a long line in customs and a VERY Long line for security. We get to spend four hours at O'Hare, but the signs are in English and the colas are served with ice! Nothing like a 28- hour day! Special thanks to Nancy for extra help with the girls and the midnight airport run!

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Location:Istanbul, up in the air

Hiking in the heat again!

It was a beautiful morning on the island. You might enjoy reading some of the colorful history of this place which has hosted the likes of Edward VIII and Wallace Simpson (in the hotel where we stayed,) as well as Trotsky, other royalty and authors. I found this article interesting:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/07/10/travel/buyukada-near-istanbul-is-an-island-idyll.html?pagewanted=all

We started the day in horse-drawn carriages, two for the eight of us and toured one of the two distinct areas of the island, seeing housing on the way that is typical period island homes, reminding us of Key West.













We eventually came to a climb too steep for the horses. So, on foot and again under the noon sun, we climbed to Ayia Yorgi, a Greek Orthodox monastery with a gorgeous prayer chapel. No pics allowed inside. The climb was intense, a little over .6 miles on uneven cobblestones at a 13% grade for an elevation of about 1000 feet. It gave us a workout with some incredible views!

















After the return trip, and a cold Turkish brew called Efes because it comes from Ephesus, we took another carriage back, stopping to glimpse the house where Oya's family would summer. From there, we said goodbye to her cousins who had to catch an earlier ferry back to Istanbul. After lunch we visited a beautiful Greek Orthodox church in the city, proving wrong the statement that all had been converted by the Ottomans to mosques.


















While the island smells would take a little adjustment due to the reliance on horses for transport, the beauty and peacefulness of the place suited me just fine! Even water is delivered by horse-drawn carts. We also saw some interesting shoe vendors. Also, Kris has offered to take my pic on several occasions, but I'm just more comfortable behind the camera. However, I took a self portrait today to assure you of my presence!













A late-afternoon ferry back to Istanbul found us sleeping to the rocking of the boat. Oya's off to dinner with some high-school friends while we revisited a local cafe where we ate with Nancy two weeks ago.

Tomorrow is our last day in Turkey. We will revisit the Grand Bazaar, see the Spice Bazaar, and have dinner with Oya before packing for our journey home.

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Location:Buyukada

More beauty and fun!

Our Tuesday started lazily as Oya had a non-English speaking visitor so we got to just relax and read for awhile. After they parted, Oya and Kris went across the street to a salon for a little "freshening up." I think it was a risky proposal given their sign, which might imply drunk barbers! Maybe they're a pub that cuts hair or are they a salon that serves drinks!?!? The building in the background is Oya's condo building, with her unit being on the tenth, top, floor.





Once they were beautified, we headed for the ferry, crossing the Marmara Sea via slow boat (stops at four charming islands) headed to the beautiful island of Buyukada, which except for police vehicles is free of all motorized vehicles.














When Oya was a child her family would rent a house on this island each summer and her dad would commute by ferry to work each day. Her cousins were often here and the families also vacationed together. Hence, Oya is very close to them! Three of her cousins, all siblings, and two of their spouses met us on the island for the evening and to spend the next day. They all love each other very much and the laughter was nonstop! We had great fun walking around the main city and dining together!



Our hotel is the Splendid Hotel. It's the building with the two domes atop (the pic is for you Nick!) The hotel is owned by one of Oya's high school classmates....we've met several this trip as they, too, remain a close group. Kris is sitting in our room in front of the veranda door....can you believe the view? The city across the water is Istanbul.











We look forward to more fun with the family and feasts for the eyes today as we explore the island in carriages!

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Location:Buyukada Island

Hurry up and wait

This has often been our trip theme! Right now we are killing a few hours at the airport before our flight back to Istanbul.

The day held surprises for all of us as Oya had not prepared an agenda in advance and we just all discussed our options and headed out of the city this morning.

We visited another ruin site early this afternoon in the city of Aspendos. It was probably the most impressive of my amphitheaters we've seen this trip. Ataturk encouraged the locals to keep it in good repair by keeping it in use. It continues to host art performances weekly. The tiny speck on stage, with her ever-present 50 SPF hat (good girl!) is Kris. Being a tourist spot, there are a few "extras" available as Oya demonstrates!















Again, being overwhelmed by heat (neither of us recalls ever being this HOT!).... it was close to 100 degrees .... we decided to visit a beautiful waterfall, named for it's host city, Manavgat. We then had a late lunch at a restaurant overlooking the falls ( we're not in the pic!)










Waiting at the airport, Kris decided to cool off by running through the sprinklers!





This final paragraph was written from Istanbul following a safe flight, with more hurry-up-and-wait stories attached, and concluding with the wildest taxi ride I've ever had! The best news is that it's a lovely 70 degrees in Istanbul. Ahhhhhhhh.....


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Location:Antalya airport, Istanbul

Saturday and Sunday on the Med

We were sad to leave the beautiful and exciting city of Bodrum with its direct beach access and bustling 24-hour activity---as well as the lovely bakery across the street!










However, the drive to Fethiye led us through beautiful farmland. From our lunch stop we were able to see a fertile valley below ( albeit hazy due to the heat) and an olive tree laden with fruit ( which only shows on enlargemant of the photo, hence not included) near our table.





We arrived to a contemporary, more continental, rather than traditional Turkish hotel. While we've loved the cultural immersion, a brief stay in the more familiar was also nice! We had a lovely view of the marina, but no direct beach access so we recovered from our drive time by relaxing poolside--as seen here from our room.




We also had a nice view of the Sea and marina, but it was even better viewed from the outdoor dining one floor above our room! You can also see that our gracious guide/host, Oya, has recovered from her cold!













I've really wanted to visit a Greek Orthodox church while in Turkey, where it was founded and where its seat still remains....in Istanbul. This Sunday, 9/11, found me particularly longing for that but still with no church to be found as the Ottomans converted them all to Mosques.

We agreed to travel to Antalya via the longer, but more scenic route, which frequently winded the Mediterranean coastline. It was absolutely spectacular!!!









The Tauras mountains were the backdrop for much of our drive. The are incredibly beautiful with large granite faces that reminded me a lot of Yosemite. It was too hazy for good pics, but I found these on the net:









En route we stopped at Myra, the city that was home to the Orthodox Bishop, later Saint, Nicholas. The Saint is entombed there and the crowds, especially from Russia where he is apparently most revered, were large and stood in long lines to place objects briefly on his sarcophagus for blessing. He lived, and this church was built, in the third century.









Another drive through harrowing, narrow passageways ( the only others we saw either brave or foolish enough-your pick- to try it were taxi drivers) and a little help from the hotel chef behind our wheel and we finally arrived very hot and tired at our final hotel, built in very traditional Ottoman style, having once been a seaside home replete with harem. Kris and Oya enjoyed another "fresh from the sea" dinner while I stuck with chicken, eaten at a restaurant built onto the old city wall which protected the city from nautical invaders. We had a very entertaining waiter! Then, early to bed preparing for our last Med day before flying back to Istanbul late tomorrow evening.







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Location:Fethiye and Antalya